I started brushing on poly. Here's the result after 4 thin coats and a 5th thicker coat, with intermediate sanding/scuffing.
Another 10 coats before I let it cure hard for a couple of weeks. Then I'll sand it smooth and buff it with compound.
I'll write a more comprehensive article when I'm done. Only thing I can say is that brushing is tricky and tedious, but rewarding and worth it in the end.